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Southern Rhone Review: Gigondas vs Vacqueyras

chris wrote this on May 17, 2009

This review is a heads-up evaluation of two wines, both from the same producer, the same vintage, and from the southern Rhone, with one wine from the Gigondas AOC and the other from the neighboring Vacqueyras AOC. Gigondas has been an official French AOC since 1971 while its “little brother” Vacqueyras did not receive such an honor until 1990. Wines from Gigondas and Vacqueyras are always blends that are known for their rustic power rather than the elegance and style of Burgundy or Bordeaux. Even though they are different blends, it will be interesting to see the difference terroir has on the style of the wine when compared to each other.

Grenache is the grape of choice for the southern Rhone but each region has its own laws dictating the blend of grapes that can be used. Grenache cannot exceed 80% of the blend in Gigondas with a minimum of of 15% Syrah and/or Mourvedre (with a maximum of 10% other “Rhone varietals”). Wines from Vacqueyras must be at least 50% Grenache with no other requirements for the remainder of the blend (other than the remaining grapes must be approved Rhone varieties). In general, wines from Vacqueyras use more Syrah in their blends than those from Gigondas.

Both wines up for review are from the reputable Rhone producer Saurel Montirius and both were purchased from Crag and Seth at Wine Authorities in Durham. As usual I will compare the wines both on style quality and value. The wines are:

2005 Montirius Gigondas “Terres des Aines”

80% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre
$34 per bottle

2005 Montirius Vacqueyras “Le Clos”

50% Grenache, 50% Syrah
$30 per bottle

Both wines were decanted for an hour before evaluating.

The Gigondas had a very rustic nose of cranberry and leather with hints of cassis, raspberries, spice, and copper penny. Very powerful, old world style palate with lots of sour cherry and cranberries, thick peppery tannins, and a black cherry-leather finish. The Gigondas is big, full bodied, and tannic with good acidity and a strong, firm backbone. Its rough around the edges and powers its away across your palate; definitely not everyone’s cup of tea but a style of wine that everyone needs to try.

Even after an hour in the decanter the Vacqueyras was still pretty tight, revealing notes of smoky meat, blood, garrigue (wild herbs), anise, and hints cherry on the nose. The palate is just as rustic, with sour cherry and rare-steak-meat-blood combined with black liquorice tannins that finish with a peppery-anise flavor. It is also a powerful and rustic wine, but lacks the acidity of the Gigondas and so seems more harsh and dry.

Style and Quality Gigondas: A

Style & Quality Vacqueyras: B+

Value Gigondas: A. A higher end Gigondas from a reputable producer under $40 is hard to find. Its starting to compete in price with the southern Rhone’s superstar wine, Chateauneuf du Pape.

Value Vacqueyras: B-. At $30 per bottle, we should be drinking the Mercedes AMG of Vacqueyras! And while this is a good wine, it delivers the same quality as other Vacqueyras I have had that cost $15 – $20.

The “Terres des Aines” is one of the better Gigondas wines that I have tried, staying true to its rustic southern Rhone roots without toning it down for an international market. I also like that they do not use Syrah in their blend, making a truly unique Gigondas that in my opinion makes it stand apart from other Gigondas wines.

The “Le Clos” Vacqueyras is also good but overpriced, especially when compared to its brother from Gigondas that costs only $4 more.

Overall, the Gigondas is more balanced and refined than the Vacqueyras, which seems ironic considering they are both rough and rustic wines. The Gigondas has more acid, is more complex, has a longer finish and greater depth. It just feels bigger, thicker, and chewier and hits all areas of the palate better than the Vacqueyras. If you are going to be spending ~$35 for a southern Rhone wine at Wine Authorities, I recommend the “Terre des Aines” Gigondas.

“Terres des Aines” Gigondas Overall: A

“Le Clos” Vacqueyras Overall: B

-Chris

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